Banarasi Brocades as the world knows it is called by the name kinkab in Varanasi. A high quality weaving is done using gold and silver threads. Silk Threads are also used as well. The most common motifs include scroll patterns and butidars designs. The other designs are Jewelry designs, birds, animals, flowers, creepers, paisley motifs. Hindu religious and Mughal motifs also influenced the brocade designs. When a Gold embellishment is done on a silver background it is called ganga-jamuna in the local language.
The designs are first drawn on paper. The person who draws this is called naqshaband. The main weaver is assisted by a helper. This design is then woven on a small wooden frame to form a grid of warp and weft. The requisite number of warp threads and the extra weft threads are woven on the loom. The famous tissue sari of Varanasi is unbelievably delicate, combining the use of gold and silver metallic threads.
There are four fabric varieties if Banarasi sarees,namely:
- Pure silk (katan) is a plain silk fabirc
- Shattir
- Organza (kora) designed with zari and silk
- Georgette banarasi sarees.
- Jungla banarasi sarees.
- Tanchoi banarasi sarees.
- Cut-work banarasi sarees.
- Tissue.
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